Making A ’66 Mustang Go Straight Down The Road

44 thoughts on “Making A ’66 Mustang Go Straight Down The Road”

1. Awesome video. Thanks

2. Very good video. Thanks and God bless

3. Actually this will handle better with the radial tires we run on the cars instead of the biased ply that the spec your working with.

4. Seems excessive 3/8 of an inch altogether

5. I'm doing this at home to my 65'. Everything brand new underneath. Trying to figure out how to take enough tension off the UCA so that I can add or subtract shims. I think you said you lifted the front end by lifting under the LCA (closest to the wheel as you can get?). I have a floor jack cross beam so I can lift both sides at the same time. My idea is to get my measurements and lift it slightly with the cross beam at the LCA, loosen the UCA bolts and try to pry some space to fit shims in. Put it back down and measure again, make adjustments, repeat. Not sure that will remove enough tension though. Any suggestions?

6. Don't forget to make a copy of the alignment specs to put in the glove compartment for next time…

7. i feel your pain

8. When I did alignments years ago in the 80s . For the shims I would tape them together to keep them together so they wouldn’t fall out or drop.

9. My 1st car in 1974 was a 65 mustang convertible. Red white top same interior, 289 4 barrel 4 speed, posi, paid $50.00 yes $50.
   It was a rust bucket. I welded patches in floor, qts, fenders, painted it too. New top, I was 16 and was working in a body shop learning how to work on cars. It turned out really good. Had a lot of fun with it. Those were the days.

10. Glad to see this! I’m restoring a 65 Falcon, including rebuilding the front end. Might have to share this with the alignment guy. Hopefully we can get the same level of success you did. It’s the basic stuff that counts!

11. It is really cool that you are willing to do the shim method for the customer. Many alignment shops refuse to do it now. I had to put in a "camber kit" for my lower control arm on my 65 mustang for anybody around me to actually align it. For modern radial tires the old service manual is incorrect for caster. New recommendation is 3 degrees or more of positive caster. Usually not attainable without an adjustable strut rod or a custom upper control arm with an offset balljoint.

12. Great video thank you!

13. The UCA bolts are splined into the shaft

14. Eric if my memory is correct? I think that the bolts are grooved to the upper control arm pivot.

15. Awesome work! Most people would not want to know what their brand new car/truck is set as lololololo Thx for sharing from Central Wyoming

16. Hook up your scan tool !!!

17. That’s cool keep it up love it

18. Great job, as always.

19. Love the attention to detail. can't believe how far out that car was to start with.

20. This brings back my HS auto shop days, good to know this knowledge still exists

21. our aligner used to be able to do single wheel runout….jack up vehicle by suspension..do each wheel …then do castor swing to check toe..etc…

22. them are a pain…an only about 1 degree castor…..most now are at least 3 degrees…i remember a hellcat with over 8 degrees,,,straightline handling forsure

23. Eric, good video 66 Stang!
    My 1970 formula Firebird 400 use that same system of shims. I had an alignment done, and the guy didn’t tighten up those big three-quarter inch bolts tight enough. There was some shaking on the driver side after about 10 miles. I popped the hood and looked down in the wheel well and sure enough all the shims that come out!
    I don’t think you can tighten those bolts too tight!😊

24. Very nice job Eric. True and centered…

25. So that’s the most complicated system on that car ! Back when people knew to keep it simple ! Lol

26. If it has a strut rod if it's like my 68 Chevy you adjust camber not with shims but titen or loosen the nuts on strut.

27. Real world work! Well done!

28. Old School is Cool!

29. Back when we had crap ass cars with crap ass tires and shot to *uck suspension parts; we were happy to do a toe and go with hand tools and ropes as we could not afford 14.99 for a full alignment. We also took the slop out of the steering gear box itself, needed on old and high mileage cars. How about next time you do this on a non-power steering car you run through that procedure? I've been watching Mustie1 for years to see him do one on an old VW Beetle, no luck!

30. Been watching the ones you did in 19 plus mainly 2020 , this is first one I have seen newest, I glad ,.. say hi to your wife from me , thanks you both , she still looks lovely as a 25 years old ., Happy birthday plus 🎉 Aniversary to plus whole family members … Bye pjb

31. I use to have a 67 fast back Muscle car of Ford., did a great job on that 66 ford

32. When I do these oldies idk if it’s necessary or not but I re sweep every time I make a change. Do the front bolt tighten then sweep them back tighten then sweep. Cause they change soooo much.

    Also I run caster closer to 5 degrees and -.75 on the camber. I thought 5 degrees was a lot but an old time ford tech who used to do these things daily said he found the cars handled amazing with these specs

33. great video Eric, best car I've seen you work on in the salt belt after many 100's of videos!!! your talent on the diag side is amazing but you have to love this classic mustang.

34. Ya better be darn tootin workin on a classic like that.

35. I’ve done lots of wheel alignments on old cars so I fully understand your frustrations. Using shims and eccentric washers to adjust camber and caster.

36. Awesome job!

37. Caster spec is for bias ply tire. The bias ply tires flex giving a more positive caster faster vehicle goes down the road. With modern tires I would have put at least 2.5 degrees caster in it.
    The shims have a hole in the top for safety wire together to keep from dropping. I use electrical tape instead wrap around shim stacks.

38. This front end setup was only until '66. Starting in '67, caster/camber adjustments were by eccentric cam bolts on the lower control arms as well as adjustment on the length of the stabilizer bars. I guess they made it more tech friendly. You could use shims on the uppers if needed, by now, a lot of these need extra help after decades of pot holes, accident repair and rust. Most alignment places do not have the knowledge to do these correctly since these older cars are becoming a dying art, and you dont think of these the same way you do of the average Accord or Camry. These were also designed with bias ply tires of the day, modern radials enjoy even more camber for better road feel. FORD originally set these up for little camber, especially for cars without P/S so they would be easier steering around town.

39. Some car my mother had

40. You can throw those alignment specs out the window with modern tires.

41. In early time i deed it in my fiat 1100 Delight .that time no wheel alignment machine invented so i do need a cotton thread to align front and rear wheels .and vertical by spirit level tube.😂😂😂😂😂😂

42. Ah the good ole days imma mopar guy but these classics we had back then were so much fun to have drive work on I’d take one any time and the person who owns this pony has done a super good job on there ride

43. Hi Eric budro hereas far as the specs for your cat zero camber halfdegree caster split and 18 inch total toe is the spec for almost any vehicle and if some one is serious about alignments they should go to hunter alignment school it's the best money I ever spent and they know their business I do hate working on them old fords they are a pain old dodges suck even worse

44. Great job on the antique car alignment! Keep up the great work! David upham!

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