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I see lots of dodge and some toyota parts on those dash interior controls
Battery replace in meter
Easy job for wheel speed sensor on this one always nice to conform by swapping a sensor love dealing with Abs and wheel speed sensors that have single bolt the ones that are apart of the hub are a pain @Rainman Ray's Repairs
I agree a low battery may be a factor. I also prefer fluke meters for accuracy when I need percise measurements.
You guys talking about that meters down sounded like a scratched 45 record to keep playing the one line of a song over and over and over and over again you young guys it's it's a desk that goes on the record player and that's what happens well sometimes when you discussing stuff guess repeated more than a couple of times and I I get the point so let's read whatever be any else is put down before we start going on about the same thing have a good night everybody
Step one go to harbor freight step to go to the electrical aisle step 3 pick up a new meter step 4 go to the cash register and pay for it step five head back to work hey Ray have a good day thank you for that informative video and that was a good way to diagnose things thank you very much just kidding about the meter bye
Those meters. Need a change of battery I have one. If the internal meter battery gets low. Then the readings of it can not be trusted
don't assume FLUKE multimeters are the best of the best they are up in the top range BUT they are designed for the military specifications hence the price is pumped up BUT there are cheaper multimeters on the market that are just as good if not better in the way of range, accuracy and build quality like for example BRYMER ( GERMAN ) I speak from having many years of actual experience in electronic engineering maintenance/repair both in the field and lab and I'm no cheap arse just thought I'd mention it, elevated price does not mean higher quality
I like your hypothesizeing!
So maybe I missed something but I didn't see anything wrong with your meter. Your first measurements were done with it in auto range mode which for what you do is how it should always be set. You got a reading for 18.8 M Ohms or mega ohms or million ohms and 4.5 M Ohms (Mega Ohms) on the other one which is a significant difference. You then changed to manual range and set the meter to Ohms. This means it could never measure the resistance of the sensors anymore because they were out of range or OL. It worked great for your leads since they should be almost 0.
I think its good to have an analog…old school meter also…
Change the battery. Most important thing you can do for your meter besides good leads and assuring you don’t touch any of the metal on leads or whatever you’re testing
i have had multi-meters die a slow death. Good battery, but acts erratic.
Ok, how many new meters were sent to you?
@Rainman Ray's Repairs 7:37 so either US multimeters are different or you meant Megaohms instead of Miliohms …
I love it..
.. you were getting paid to drive down the road in someone else’s car…ðŸ‘
Jeep Liberty… not an actual "Jeep."
Thanks for sharing Ray- love our videos. My background is in electronics repair, and I like the way you approach issues. The wheel sensors are Hall Effect devices. When you place them on a ferro-magnetic surface (such as the top of the tool box) and move it away, you will trigger the device- which changes the resistance reading on the meter. You cannot expect the two devices to read similar under different physical conditions. Also, the resistance reading will be a function of the current output of the DVM when on different Ohms ranges. You need to turn off auto-range when trying to do a resistance comparison because on higher Ohms ranges the current will be too low to operate/trigger the sensor at all.
Good video, and some valuable advices! Greets from Helsinki
man this guy sounds like my internal monologue. and if I could find a mechanic as honest as him I would never go anywhere else.