OVERDRIVE the Alternator! More Amps and Low RPM #electrical #audio

27 thoughts on “OVERDRIVE the Alternator! More Amps and Low RPM #electrical #audio”

1. Good excuse for another video on that sweet suburban!

2. I just learned something new today.

3. If the load is the same, why did the current increase? Did the voltage go down? P=V I

4. Failing to check voltages was was a complete fail, I am confident that any low voltage issues this vehicle was suffering from, were not remedied with this install. The instrument cluster and engine management are requisite in this alternators function. Should have disconnected and load tested each battery separately, should have scanned engine management and cluster for DTC's, should have tested for voltage drop in all of the charging system circuits ( both power and ground sides). This platform is notorious for voltage drop in the positive battery cable terminal crimp, maxi fuse connection, ground termination at the engine block, ground termination on the radiator support, and the ground on the frame near the ABS module. In scan data there is a value for desired battery voltage, actual voltage, and percent of commanded alternator output. These are the values that needed to be observed.

5. weak wire for that alternator

6. This makes no sense. At low speeds when your cars computer detects more amperage is needed at idle ( for example – ac, headlights and or heater fan at high speed ) it is designed to increase the rpms as needed. As a professional mechanic you have to know this already, so please explain your reasoning for what you are doing.

7. Reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

8. Who sells the smaller pulley? I have an 2002 Suburban with 5.3l also.

9. Needs a Big 3 battery cable and ground uograde which helps a lot . Most all cars need one.

10. What is the little red box on I believe the positive cable? Seen at 4:50 minutes into video.

11. I thaught they have a voltage regulator regardless of rpm

12. Whatever happened with the gray Nissan Pathfinder, you put the intake manifold back on with blue rags still stuck in the holes unless you didn't show removing them, but actually on the vid it shows you screwing down the intake on top of the rags, just wondered since you didn't show the final test drive??

13. We overdrive alternators on agricultural equipment, because we run so low rpms that the normal "1 to 1" ish, ratio wont always maintain charge with a barely above idle engine.
    We run 5" inch drive on the 2ish inch pulleys for low rpm operations. LOL yet on my LS7 Rpm build engine, im running the reverse low ratio for the constant 6000 – 9500 rpms the engine operates at. Better to run lower volume and reduce any cavitation and recoup loses with giant 3 or 4 row oversized radiator. Rambling of crazy tool and die auto machinist stuck in snow living in the shed. Making chips and watching youtube.

14. Hate to tell ya Ray the Wipers on the Silverado is thee largest load in the system with AC & Blower on double it..

15. I rely on channels like yours for ALL of my mechanical advice. Thank you!!!

16. There are so many alternator options for these trucks I'd just go up one in average output. Last one I did had 4 options for amperage. 🙂

17. Eyecrometer 😅

18. That's not a plastic pulley ?

19. My only concern about this is that it it would reduce the service life of the alternator. If the increase in power is beneficial, then roll the dice. You always have to give up something to get something. It is up to you to determine if it is worth it.

20. if im not mistaken the burb is built on the same chassy as the Silverado

21. My newer cars and trucks all have computer controlled charging —- produce 14.9v when coasting/decelerating, and 12.x volts when accelerating/driving. Trying to outsmart the engineers won’t work well

22. Need more power? Higher amp alternator. Or get the kit to add a second one. Especially with manufacturers going to stretch-fit belts.

23. No idea why this is even necessary? These trucks have over a million miles on them all around the country on the stock battery/alt combo. I have even personally owned a few of this body style pulling campers, boats, and my kids have had every electrical device known to man plugged in and I have never seen or heard of any problems/complaints. Personally it seems you are shortening the life of the alt for nothing….

24. I don't understand how the screen said "mV", your selector switch said "Volts", yet you said it was reading amps. The meter had an "A" (Amps) range that you didn't use. I also think a better assessment would have been to measure the alternator output voltage – ideally 13.8V – 14.2V. A measurement of Volts from both pulleys at idle would, I believe, have given a better assessment.

25. thankyou Ray an excellent quick stress free project,,👌👌

26. I have rebuilt a lot of Delco alternators for friends, the rectifiers will fail prematurely with that setup due to increased heat produced. They mount with thermal compound to the frame and on older units the compound breaks down and is less efficient. I have seen the rectifier block actually melt the solder where the stator leads attach. You do what the customer wants, but make sure to CYA when they come back with a fried alt.

27. This has a better chance of frying the bearings before the rest of the alternator unless something highly power consuming was added to the vehicle.

Comments are closed.