Powering on the Brake Lathe! Previously Unlisted bonus video

Go back to Part 1! Punishment from the Car Gods! 2008 Ford Flex 3.5l Airbag, Banging, Vibrating parts falling off. https://youtu.be/QehGRbWjIIY

You are here! Part 1.5 the machine the rotors on the lathe https://youtu.be/BDIMI28McW0

Part 2: FLEXing Transmission Mount https://youtu.be/2TFd63XVrkE

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44 thoughts on “Powering on the Brake Lathe! Previously Unlisted bonus video

  1. Now don't take this as "you did something wrong" but more as "this is why this would happened". In which case you know rubber bands deteriorate in lubricating oil. The cleaner that you used on the rotor makes rubber brittle. As soon as I saw the red straw I cringe just a little lol. But the reason why that rubber band broke was because you used cleaner on the rotor and some of it splashed on the rubber band making it brittle. That's why it broke.

  2. Resurfacing rotors, drums used to be a common thing. But it got so cheap out here in California to just buy new rotors or new drums versus labor costs it was easier just to put newer ones on. Sold the lathe and quit doing it. For cost efficiency to the customer. 🤔🤗🙏♥️🇺🇲

  3. Ray I really enjoyed watching this video but I also need to tell you I overhaul those machines AAMCO brake lathe they’re easy to work on if you know what you’re doing but never ever ever take apart the fast and slow mechanism that’s what we called the transmission and trust me everyone decides to call me after they’ve been working on it for a week lol lol. I wanted to tell you the rubber band is a piece of junk do not buy those anymore they’re like 25 or $30 the best thing to do is buy the spring they can actually be ordered from eBay make sure you get the five pieces you do not need six because you can reduce it down to four and five only sizes you need on the spring those are about 40 bucks but they will last you forever trust me in what I’m telling you if you don’t know how to get one let me know and I can tell you exactly where to get one and ship it to you directly or get you a number where you can talk to these people but if you ever need someone to help you how to put it back together and I’m talking about the AAMCO brake lathe let me know they’re not easy to work on other than that God bless you Ray✝️✝️✝️🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

  4. Nice as always to watch some one who takes pride in their work do stuff right.

    Also; I noticed you tend to go through those rubberband dampeners. Im wondering if the break cleaner you use is attacking the rubber. Maybe remove the dampener before the spray down?
    Just some thoughts. Not a Ree. 😛

  5. There isn't a worm gear in there. There is a scroll (spiral grooves in the face of a plate) that engages with teeth on the back of each jaw, and a bevel gear that rotates the scroll. If it was a worm gear the socket for the chuck key would be more tangential, instead of going straight in.

  6. You can't get a super fine surface finish on a brake lathe. The are not made to those tolerances need. Only a well made lathe can can do that. There was no reason to make a finish pass since the difference between a rough cut & a finish pass in only about .0001 & your brake lathe does not have the fine turning capabilities for speed & feed rates as a manual lathe has.

  7. After you get done turning those rotors, the next customer needs points and an automatic choke. Oh and I hope you brought you timing light, got a Chevy with those nylon gears.

  8. It has been more than fifteen years since I ran that exact lathe…& yes, one can even smell still what it was like, the feel of that crank handle as you bring in the bit & it touches down, …all of it.
    I hear it is becoming a lost skill as many shops are just throwing "new" rotors & fully loaded calipers, instead of turning rotors & servicing calipers…I guess that's why I was elected to turn flywheels, the ones with the "step" in the surface, I'm guessing no one in that shop was comfortable with that flywheel lathe, nor had the appropriate skill.

  9. Wow! I had a cheap deal when I took brake class in the 90's. I don't even remember running any cuts. Too bad everyone don't have one in their own garage! My Napa don't even do it anymore. CARQUEST still does it but I never did see them using the damper strap or red white and blue dress tie. But it was great to learn the process! Things that go on in an healthy mechanic's garage! 😉😉😉😉😉👍

  10. Lot better setup then I am used to…when I cut I would take minimal amount of the rotors and drums.. your exactly right about the smooth cut.. I always did 1000th on slow

  11. My own experience with rotors was getting hard spots from hard semi-metallic pads. I had an S10 that ate the rotors while the pads were still thick. Shop turned the rotors and afterwards had pulsations. Tossed them and put on new rotors. Problem solved. Most people run their brakes down to the rivets putting grooves in that can't be turned out or do hard braking that overheats and warps rotors. Unless there is a good reason to keep them (high cost or low wear), I toss them and put on new. Don't want to do it twice. I'm not sure you can even turn some rotors like the ceramics on exotics.

  12. Brake lathe 101 for dummy arses. 1. NEVER cut a rotor to min thick, leave 10 thou extra to allow for the pads "turning" of the rotor. 2. ALWAYS clean the hat area of rotor to obtain a flat mounting surface, preventing induced run out, and check for run out with a dial indicator. 3. ALWAYS do a non directional finish, die grinder/abrasive wheel will work with lathe running. 3. ALWAYS check thickness with micro meter, being sure you're 10 thou above min thick. 4. ALWAYS clean rotor, warm soap and water works great.
    As rotors and mounts have gotten smaller and lighter for weight reduction/gas mileage increase {????}, you most often see tapered rotor wear as shown on Rays first pass. Lathe cuts inside near the hat and no cutting of the outside edge. Thus as a general rule, late model FWD rotors need more metal removed to get em flat/true. That said, most often you'll need new rotors every other brake job.Unless you drive like a wild engine headed to the outhouse, machined rotors should not warp any faster/worse than new ones would…Cost wise, Yukon $65.00 each for new rotors, $15.00 each to machine old ones. Customer saves $100.00. Of course this may be an exception if rotors are a lot cheaper, which they are on some cars. We discuss it and I let the customer decide. After all, it's their money and their car and I'll do what they want as long as it's safe…..

  13. That rubber band thing looks like it could snap at any second. Replace that thing, man. EDIT: Oh Snap! I called that before I watched it!

  14. Awhile back l asked why rotors and drums were being replaced instead of turned. A few made light of the comment and treated it as one of the dumbest questions to ask. Our shop had a set fee for the service. Rotors had a higher cost and the dampening belts were leather, yeah l'm old. Side question; How are your fowl getting along?

  15. This should be done more. The world needs to stop depending on cheap stuff from China or we'll all end up in their pockets like Germany is with Russia because of its dependence on gas imports.

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