Replace: Electric Trailer Brakes – Part 2

In this video come along as I replace these electric brakes on this camper travel trailer and repack the wheel bearings.

Remember to follow your shop manual for the proper procedure.

Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not South Main Auto Repair.


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  1. I just adjusted new brakes I put on. I backed them off until there was just I bit of drag. I pulled the trailer down the road and could feel the extra pull on the trail. I could smell the brakes burning and feel heat on the wheel. I guess that's bad and I assume I need to back off some more.

  2. Sotchlock I believe is a Trade name for wire nuts. The ones you showed, I hate them also. I call them cut and hope the wire is not cut completely into and doesn't corrode too soon. Love your show. I learn A LOT every time I tune in. Keep up the good work and the videos. Mike Seitz from Alva ,FL.

  3. Eric! For those butt connectors try twisting the wires together first and insert them into the same end of the connector that way they are directly connected to each other and crimp down tight. It's quicker too since you only crimp once per connection.

  4. You most definitely have the BEST DIY Brake JOB on the Tube !! Hands Down !   Thanks for Sharing, I know it takes time to do a Video and to help others.   Again, T H A N K S       Your instruction will SAVE $$$$ all of us some M O N E Y !!!!

  5. Great video ! Love your opinion on the RV industry. I pray we all improve our quality of work. This country is the best and can only get better. Working people, like yourself, make the U.S.A great place to be.
    You know your craft and it shows. Thank you for taking the time to help others.
    I will be repacking my trailer wheel bearings on Monday.

  6. I think we went to the same school.. I have always done exactly what you did here, but my reasoning for the additional grease in the hub is for extra insurance. I figure while the grease is getting hot traveling down the road, it is also being centrifuged out to the bearings.
    Ok, that might just be what I "WANT" to think, but it makes me feel better!!
    One thing I do different is with the cotter pin. I slide it through the castle nut and only bent the closer half of the pin to about 90*s. Then I cut it off even with the face of the axle and cut off the other end of the pin even with the nut. I was shown to do it your way, but I once had to dig what was left of a cap out of the hub where someone before me had reused an old pin and it broke off and backed out to the cap cutting it nearly all the way around the cap. So I cut them short to know it will never be used again and no way I can be the culprit who left the pin long enough to cause issues. But that's just me. 😉
    SCOTCH LOCKS are the original NAME BRAND device. Like people call (locking adjustable pliers) = VISE GRIPS. Vise grips were the original.. Scotch locks are 99.99999% JUNK… I cannot tell you how often people would come to my shop with shorts in their tail lights and trailer lights that scotch locks were used on. Rochester NY, the land of rust, salt and monster pot holes, IS NOT the place to use that junk… Absolute garbage and allllllways the reason lights were not working.. Even worse were those older cars with the aluminum tail light wiring harnesses in the trunk that peeps would use scotch locks on. That wire was so thin it would brake when the lock splice would be pressed into place. Then peeps would check them at the splice plate and think everything was working.. NOT!!!!!!!

  7. Love your videos. Question got four wires going to my new brake pads on left side brakes. two coming off the axle and two going up inside the trailer, could these be going to my rear trailer brake lights.

  8. Great informative video.


    Without talking above the heads of those who show an intrest in seeking knowledge of those willing to share it.

    Thank you for addressing us as "viewers" instead of "you tubers".

    I go to the next video when someone starts their video that way.

    Thank you so much for sharing.

    Passing on knowledge for future generations to share.

  9. you sound like you could be my twin brother. I made weed eaters out of junk Vacuum cleaner motors before Weedeater was even a brand name, I hopped up every riding mower I could trade someone out of. I had one Homelite mower that would run 30 mph at 12yrs old. My 1st motorcycle was an Yamaha enduro 80cc that can in box torn apart (another trade)I finally got it back together and running and added a headlight that ran off the magneto. I went on to built moch-up test boxes for everything I worked on. I even built one to test speedo's and tach's on Frieghtliner trucks from any related connection test point in the harness. It prevented a several costly dyno test runs to check for accuracy. and removed the guessing game when the engineers listed the wrong codes. It's nice to see someone doing a simple task and, taking the time to explain "why" it ain't so simple if you don't know what your doing. Thanks for taking the time to show us about electric brakes and thanks for adding the interesting stories from you youth……nice to watch someone on you tube who also has the MacGyver vibe.

  10. On the first trailer I ever did, I thought I would be professional and solder the brake wires. A week later a shop called me from several states away and told me most were broken. They explained never to solder or use butt connectors due to the excess movement on axles causing them to brake. They said even though it seems inferior, to use the twist (Romex type) connectors instead . I thought I was doing a better job with solder and heat shrink, apparently not though. You're a good teacher, love these clips.

  11. great video. i was taught by my father as well as an instructor named mr. berdick at alfrid state college that too much grease in the hub is bad and as you said not nessary thats how i do it for years too and no come backs i called them scoth locks too. and fyi to viewers the 3 m ones with the dielectric grease isnt no better so dont think they are there junk everywhere

  12. Hi Eric i really enjoy your video i always wanted to know to adjust my caravan brakes i though the adjustment was only where the two brake cable met to the metal rod that goes to the hand brake thanks again for the tips

  13. Terrific video Eric O. Really helped me out. I came upon a 25 yr RV on the cheap and needed to repair the brakes on it for a cross-state family vacation. I like how you covered every aspect of the assembly replacement. Thanks a bunch

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