Subaru Outback Repair Series: #3 Front Wheel Bearing

35 thoughts on “Subaru Outback Repair Series: #3 Front Wheel Bearing”

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2. I noticed you've got a sticker of Scotty Kilmer on your white board.

3. I wire brushed the ends of the hub bolts that were poking out, they came out much easier that way.

4. Do you like your DeWalt mid torque impact wrench / driver? I’m shopping for one but can’t decide on a brand yet.

5. Thanks for you video, excellent. I have a question for you. I have replace the front wheel hubs in my Forester 2011 due to that tipical wheel bearing noise. The noise continued after new wheel hubs. Replace tires, noise continues. Replace front differential bearings and noise continues. Replace hole transmission and noise continues. Any idea rather than selling the car or putting on fire? I will appreciate any recommendation, Thanks

6. Just did thus shit on a 2011 Subaru Outback in my garage whewwww

7. If you release the terminals of the stabilizer bar, it is easier to lower the arm than to lever it. I have already done it and it is easier.

8. Damn, that cv axle came out of the hub wicked easy!

9. Great video, I’ve just done mine, after getting the 4 bolts out from the back, the rest took 3 minutes. A wood chisel down the back of the bearing, prized 1mm from the top, hit up then 2 from the bottom – all out in one go, sensor all good. No messing taking extra stuff off or welding this and that.

10. My CV axle would NOT go in! I figured it out, so I thought I would post this here to help someone else out down the road.

    2012 Subaru Outback 2.5…The retainer ring had to be put in the differential (not onto the CV axle), then the CV could be installed. The depth of the retainer ring channel and the height of the CV spline was such that even when the retainer ring was fully compressed it was as tall as the CV spline. So the matching spline housing in the differential was not going to be able to pass by the ring. Everything on the internets said “just jerk it in, it’s tough but you gotta yank it, etc.” I was beat on it with a 8 pound sledge, I dremeled the retainer ring smaller, I ordered a factory retainer ring, I greased it, I squeezed it, I bent it, all over the course of 4 different nights working on it…nothing worked. I put the ring in the differential (which was nerve racking cuz I didn’t want it going into the diff), but then it jerked in appropriately on my third tug.

    Also, the wheel bearing had been difficult to get out too. I popped the lug nut studs out. Got a 1/2inch by 5 inch full thread hardened bolt (O’reilly’s). Put the bolt through the stud hole with a nut on it. I had to remove the parking brake hardware so the bolt could rest/push against the parking brake dust cover (which had cast iron behind it). You have to leave the CV in with the nut on it, because otherwise the wheel bearing will separate. Use 3 or four bolts/nuts with an impact driver and some penetrating oil. The nut pushes the bearing out while the long bolt is pressing against the bearing housing. You’ll leave a mark on the dust cover, but so what.

11. Hell I can’t see what he’s working on him on the backside of it

12. Would you buy cheap Amazon bearings?

13. Hey there! Just watching for fun. I find that to remove axle it's easier to pull the strut bolts and rotate the wheel. I don't like working on ball joints and this way you have clearance without messing with that dang ball joint.

14. Shop mechanic advised me a wheel bearing replacement was 7-8 hours…I took a pass on his offer hahaha

15. That's a great ballpeen hammer joke, I've had that thought!

16. This gave me nightmares doing struts on a jeep grand Cherokee that was just as rusted. Took heat and multiple and about 10 minutes of straight impacting back and forth before the nut came loose and it was moving so slow it feels like time just stopped

17. Anyone else see the Scotty Kilmer sticker in the background on the white board?

18. I really like your channel plus learning a lot thanks. I got a question, what is the big red pry bar called? The one you pull down for leverage. Do they sell that on Amazon. I really like the tool. Let me know thanks:) keep those videos coming 🙂 be blessed.

19. Rust…..the Final Frontier. These are the voyages of pissed off home mechanics everywhere. I hate my crap Subaru.

20. Just replaced my mom’s 2011 other night. I had a lot of issues with that axle in the way as well. I had to move that axle in a lot and I used a small crow bar to keep it in. That helped me remove those bolts. Still, not an easy job. My Duramax hub replacement, much easier!!!

21. plenty of carnage 🤓🍿

22. Love your videos. Always learning. However i felt like i was choking on all the dust going on. So for your wondefull kids…..and to live a long healthy long life for them……..please…..please….please…..at least wear a dust mask? 😟

23. I would love a reliable Do-All!

24. очень медленно шаровую снимать не надо .надо от амортизатора

25. i have to replace almost everything under my subaru because the previous owner drove it through snow and never washed it off. so its completely rusted. so.. i figured if a mechanic can do it, i can figure it out. thanks for the videos! adding these in my arsenal of videos to refer back to when i start.

26. Just did the front bearings on my 2010 Outback. Used the wheel stud removal/bolt pull method. Could not find the Astro "Last Chance" bolt set anywhere so used the Grade 8 bolts from local Lowes – worked equally good. Going air hammer was the second choice and burning the car down was the third :-). Used anti-seize on the bearing/knuckle mating surfaces. Not sure if it was a good idea but the bearings are in there now, no going back. Thanks Eric for lifting my spirits to get this job done. Shops in my area think they fix space rockets and charge like brain surgeons. Thanks once again.

27. what was the red thing that pulled the control arm down?

28. Where did you buy the "hockey stick"

29. I had a wobble in the front left. Thought it was the cv axel so I replaced it. Helped a little but not completely. Found the hub to also be loose so I replaced that too. I was lucky I guess. Didn't need to remove the cv axel to replace the hub. But having done that just two months earlier not a big deal. The new hub was fine for about 15 miles then the wobble came back. The new hub has the same free play as the worn one and spins a bit easier than out of the box. What would cause immediate premature wear like that? The axel nut was torqued to spec.

30. SMA is the greatest channel on the YT

31. i just changed a front wheel bearing on my 2011 outback today thanks to this video! first time doing it, up until now i'd only done brakes and oil changes (and an alternator on my old car). i disconnected the strut instead of the ball joint but this was super helpful, thanks borther!

32. Wire wheeling the exposed [rusty] nubs of the bearing bolts to clean threads makes that part of the job that much easier. Especially when the rust binds up the threads and you end up rounding over the rusty hex head. Don't ask me how I know ('05 outback)

33. great video, I live in canada so our cars have square tires, and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots of rust, and because we don't have electricity yet we only use wrenches, not those yellows noisy things.

34. I have this job tomorrow but I live in sunny Southern California. Wish me luck!

35. I have changed the front axles one 2 Subaru's. Being as I am terrified of wrecking the ball joints I took the strut off. I paint mark the bolt heads, as one is cammed and have had no alignment issues.
    Certainly not best practice but works for us backyard mechs.

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