Toyota dealer in my area is asking for $978 and $65 for the bushing collar. Is TRQ a better deal from A1 auto website or parts geek?
Great video! Really helping with my rack swap. Getting that 19mm bolt (at 6:30) was a pain. Had a good solution for anyone doing this… cut a groove in the end of the bolt with the angle grinder and use your flat head screw driver bit to push it up. Having trouble bleeding the air out of system and PS fluid is filling up the CV boot, so not sure how we’re going to finish this just yet. Thank you Mustie for the great vids!
Would of loved to of seen it removed and installed and how you fought it out if there were any issues instead of just cuts of the edits :/
What year is this tundra
I finally got my rebuilt rack and pinion. I looked at one of the Toyota dealer website and I can't find the hose gaskets for the rack and pinion. Where did you buy the ones you used?
Where did you the rebuilt rack and pinion? I have the same exact problem at 245,000 miles. Too cheap to buy the OEM part.
What year tundra is it? I have a 08
What type of lift is that you had the truck on?
Thanks Musti. Just did this to my Tundra. Your air hammer idea worked like a charm. One problem I encountered that you didn't. Tightening the tie rods, the boots started twisting up. Removing the spring loaded hose clamps wasn't good enough. I carefully slid a little screwdriver under the boot edge an dripped a little WD on them. Smooth sailing after that.
Great video
You do good vids bro. Probably will have to install rack on my '02 Tundra. Was feeling dreadful but feeling confident now after watching your video. Thank you!
Did you pop the tie rod ends off, or just unthread them? Can you spin the tie rod inside the boot without causing damage?
just happened to mine…rusted out-bad! thanks for sharing this
Excellent!
Thanks for the video on the Tundra rack replacement. Had to do the same on mine. I beat on the rag joint trying to get it to come apart from the rack shaft to no avail. Finally came loose from the steering shaft. After getting it out from under the truck I used everything I had (chisels, hammers, air hammers, etc.) to get the rag joint off. Would not come off at all. Bought a new one and shipped the core back with the old rag joint still attached.
What tundra is that?
Awesome vid. Thank you.
I know this was a long time ago but I'm binge watching your videos. As a former brake and suspension mechanic I can give you a couple things to ponder if you do a job like this again. It's always a good idea to open the return line on the system while you have the OLD rack in place and push a gallon of ATF through the system before you change to the new rack. The systems get full of chaff and crap from the old rack wearing. All that garbage is suspended in the oil and will then contaminate the new rack on the first start up. So flushing out the system prior to change is wise. This flush will help to prolong the life of the PS pump as it won't be recirculating muddy gunk. Secondly once you install the new rack you then push all the ATF out with fresh steering fluid and that then flushes the new rack in case it has garbage in it. The new fluid will be less prone to foaming as your old oil has LONG ago lost it's anti foaming agents and that is why she talked to you for a few days. As a preventative measure it's a good plan to flush power racks every 30K or so as they will last a lot better and fluid is cheaper and less hassle than a rack swap. Points to ponder. All in all you got through it well….. it's a little bit of a bugger.
Supposed to come centered from factory read the directions
Great video! Looks like I’ll be doing this on my dads tundra, so this was very helpful. Thanks for sharing, man!
Surprise you did not oil outside of the rack so wouldn't rust out again?
Nice job! very informative. Looks like I might be doing this soon.
consider yourself lucky. On Isuzu Rodeos the entire lower front suspension has to come off to replace the rack. That was a not so fun 12 hours.
not happy a bout that more work for you it well be o.k
I just got my alignment done and the shop told me I need to replace my rack and pinion cuz it starting to leak?
So u had to do ur alignment after that?
thanks…
Great video. thanks!
did you get the parts for the silver tundra thats a nice truck
Thanks for this! Now it's my turn….. D'oh!
just like to say i injoy seeing all ur videos.
Thanks for this video. I just did the same job on my 01, and your video was a big help.
The coupler got stuck on my steering shaft too. I followed your advice, and used an air hammer with a pointed chisel in the base of the split. It forced the coupler open and at the same time pushed it off of the shaft. It worked perfectly.
hey thanks for making this video I just lost power steering and saw that the rack rusted out so ill be doing this next
do you have a steering wheel lock? or did you DIY a tool for it? sorry if u had explained in another vid, this is the first one i have seen
Very informative video. I have a 2000 tundra that just had the frame replaced but was still getting a "popping or clunking" noise when I pulled into an uneven drive. Returned to the dealer twice and on the second go around they "determined" that it could be the sway bar bushings. Now that I've seen this video, I will have to get the rack checked out as well. Again, the video was very good and helpful. Thanks
My dad had to get one replaced in a Sequoia for the same issue, after we replaced a hose that looked to be leaking down to there.
I think in that partial hole near the end of the stub steering shaft is a pin that fastens the inner torsion shaft that connects to the control valve that directs fluid to either side of rack piston.
Mustie1, Another job well done!
The only thing that I really ensure is that the steering is locked in the straight ahead position so there is no ability for the steering to turn and possibly destroy the clock spring..( Only on SRS air bag systems)..That's what connects the air bag,,horn and some vehicles audio controls etc..It all worked out well..
nice
hey mustie why dont you go ahead and undercoat the tundra with bar and chain oil? theres lots of bare metal. you guys worst enemy seems to be salt and undercoating is your best friend. make sure you get those underbody cavities that end up eaten out with rust.
mmm, I better check the rack on my Tacoma. I've had some strange pieces rust out, but would never figure the rack would go.
Toyota dealer in my area is asking for $978 and $65 for the bushing collar. Is TRQ a better deal from A1 auto website or parts geek?
Great video! Really helping with my rack swap. Getting that 19mm bolt (at 6:30) was a pain. Had a good solution for anyone doing this… cut a groove in the end of the bolt with the angle grinder and use your flat head screw driver bit to push it up. Having trouble bleeding the air out of system and PS fluid is filling up the CV boot, so not sure how we’re going to finish this just yet. Thank you Mustie for the great vids!
Would of loved to of seen it removed and installed and how you fought it out if there were any issues instead of just cuts of the edits :/
What year is this tundra
I finally got my rebuilt rack and pinion. I looked at one of the Toyota dealer website and I can't find the hose gaskets for the rack and pinion. Where did you buy the ones you used?
Where did you the rebuilt rack and pinion? I have the same exact problem at 245,000 miles. Too cheap to buy the OEM part.
What year tundra is it? I have a 08
What type of lift is that you had the truck on?
Thanks Musti. Just did this to my Tundra. Your air hammer idea worked like a charm. One problem I encountered that you didn't. Tightening the tie rods, the boots started twisting up. Removing the spring loaded hose clamps wasn't good enough. I carefully slid a little screwdriver under the boot edge an dripped a little WD on them. Smooth sailing after that.
Great video
You do good vids bro. Probably will have to install rack on my '02 Tundra. Was feeling dreadful but feeling confident now after watching your video. Thank you!
Did you pop the tie rod ends off, or just unthread them? Can you spin the tie rod inside the boot without causing damage?
just happened to mine…rusted out-bad! thanks for sharing this
Excellent!
Thanks for the video on the Tundra rack replacement. Had to do the same on mine. I beat on the rag joint trying to get it to come apart from the rack shaft to no avail. Finally came loose from the steering shaft. After getting it out from under the truck I used everything I had (chisels, hammers, air hammers, etc.) to get the rag joint off. Would not come off at all. Bought a new one and shipped the core back with the old rag joint still attached.
What tundra is that?
Awesome vid. Thank you.
I know this was a long time ago but I'm binge watching your videos. As a former brake and suspension mechanic I can give you a couple things to ponder if you do a job like this again. It's always a good idea to open the return line on the system while you have the OLD rack in place and push a gallon of ATF through the system before you change to the new rack. The systems get full of chaff and crap from the old rack wearing. All that garbage is suspended in the oil and will then contaminate the new rack on the first start up. So flushing out the system prior to change is wise. This flush will help to prolong the life of the PS pump as it won't be recirculating muddy gunk. Secondly once you install the new rack you then push all the ATF out with fresh steering fluid and that then flushes the new rack in case it has garbage in it. The new fluid will be less prone to foaming as your old oil has LONG ago lost it's anti foaming agents and that is why she talked to you for a few days. As a preventative measure it's a good plan to flush power racks every 30K or so as they will last a lot better and fluid is cheaper and less hassle than a rack swap. Points to ponder. All in all you got through it well….. it's a little bit of a bugger.
Supposed to come centered from factory read the directions
Great video! Looks like I’ll be doing this on my dads tundra, so this was very helpful. Thanks for sharing, man!
Surprise you did not oil outside of the rack so wouldn't rust out again?
Nice job! very informative. Looks like I might be doing this soon.
consider yourself lucky. On Isuzu Rodeos the entire lower front suspension has to come off to replace the rack. That was a not so fun 12 hours.
not happy a bout that more work for you it well be o.k
I just got my alignment done and the shop told me I need to replace my rack and pinion cuz it starting to leak?
So u had to do ur alignment after that?
thanks…
Great video. thanks!
did you get the parts for the silver tundra thats a nice truck
Thanks for this! Now it's my turn….. D'oh!
just like to say i injoy seeing all ur videos.
Thanks for this video. I just did the same job on my 01, and your video was a big help.
The coupler got stuck on my steering shaft too. I followed your advice, and used an air hammer with a pointed chisel in the base of the split. It forced the coupler open and at the same time pushed it off of the shaft. It worked perfectly.
hey thanks for making this video I just lost power steering and saw that the rack rusted out so ill be doing this next
do you have a steering wheel lock? or did you DIY a tool for it? sorry if u had explained in another vid, this is the first one i have seen
Very informative video. I have a 2000 tundra that just had the frame replaced but was still getting a "popping or clunking" noise when I pulled into an uneven drive. Returned to the dealer twice and on the second go around they "determined" that it could be the sway bar bushings. Now that I've seen this video, I will have to get the rack checked out as well. Again, the video was very good and helpful. Thanks
My dad had to get one replaced in a Sequoia for the same issue, after we replaced a hose that looked to be leaking down to there.
I think in that partial hole near the end of the stub steering shaft is a pin that fastens the inner torsion shaft that connects to the control valve that directs fluid to either side of rack piston.
Mustie1, Another job well done!
The only thing that I really ensure is that the steering is locked in the straight ahead position so there is no ability for the steering to turn and possibly destroy the clock spring..( Only on SRS air bag systems)..That's what connects the air bag,,horn and some vehicles audio controls etc..It all worked out well..
nice
hey mustie
why dont you go ahead and undercoat the tundra with bar and chain oil? theres
lots of bare metal. you guys worst enemy seems to be salt and undercoating is your best friend.
make sure you get those underbody cavities that end up eaten out with rust.
mmm, I better check the rack on my Tacoma. I've had some strange pieces rust out, but would never figure the rack would go.