New Engine! Warranty Camshaft Sprocket Cheap and Risky! Ford F150 F250 5.4 Triton https://youtu.be/pJixTJomiLA
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Part 1: Hack Job! Mechanic Botches Engine Replacement! Ford F-150 5.4 3 Valve P0345 P0175 P0063 P2006 P2195 https://youtu.be/nO6VUpahnng
Part 2:New Engine! Full of Codes! Ford F-150 5.4 3 Valve P0345 P0175 P0063 P2006 P2195 https://youtu.be/zqERlGBZwOQ
Tear down : NEW Engine Rattles Startup! WHO pays for THIS! Teardown on Ford F150 5.3 Triton
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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4×4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to




















New Engine! Warranty Camshaft Sprocket Cheap and Risky! Ford F150 F250 5.4 Triton https://youtu.be/pJixTJomiLA
RANT: Mechanic Catching a LAWSUIT!!! Sellout?? https://youtu.be/tnBYKS88iUw
Bloody horrible!! Never do business with that shady company!!!!!🤬🤬🤬
Wish we knew the engine rebuilder . 👍👍
Most likely the timing chain tensioners use motorcraft. Don't use the ratcheting type tensioners ,they don't expand out as far and a loss of power can be felt in the engine. Vct solenoids use motorcraft.
Are you a trumper
And no its not the cam phazer. you would need to see the engine timing on a scope to see if the cam phazer is stuck first..
The first part of that start up – either a leaking exhaust manifold or a leaking spark plug –
The second part of that noise is a lash adjuster starting stick and causing the roller follower to tick, This might be remedied by the use of WD40 in with the oil and cleaning out the varnish, About a cup of WD40 and let it work its way through the system – pour it while the engine is running and let it idle for about 1/2 hour – change the oil and filter and refill and again 1 cup of WD40 in with the oil and the tick should go away as mine did.
I have a 2008 F250 with 230,000 on the clock and it was ticking when hot , I tried this and it restored my engine back to normal. The trick here is to stop the ticking before it gets to bad and destroys a roller follower and cam.
Either use a new or a reman OEM unit. Along with new OEM exhaust manifolds.
Sounds more like rod knock than camshaft phaser rattle but that could just be me
It's just Uncle Rodney
Who is the rebuilder?
Have a friend that had the motor in his boat changed out with a rebuilt from a major rebuilder. Cam went flat after 5 hrs running. Got another one same thing. Used a different rebuilder for the 3rd motor, and that one worked. He never took possession of the boat for the first 2 try's, the boat shop wanted to make sure it was broken in right.. LOL
What an over complicated piece of junk engine these are! If they had (could have been allowed to) just keep building the “tried and true” old cast iron pushrod engines, things would have been fine and everybody could have been happy! But, no!
sounds more like a knock to me……………………………….
Reeeeeeeeeeeeee! This video serious is going viral in about every other YouTube comment section I see…. Cliccccck goes the cam phaser bolt… nobody needs torque settings, send it! 😂
isnt this a repeat of an old video
Do you even read my comments? Once again, did you replace the cracked passenger side exhaust manifold?
I have a 2006 F150 and have been down this road before
That sounds like a timing chain tensioner and chain rattle until it gets oil pressure
Oil starvation somewhere. That engine life juice isn't getting somewhere. That is my thought. Take it for what it is, and I could be wrong. I have been before.
I had a 1967 F-series 352. I started the ticky-ticky at 35,000 and tried oil change and heavy oil additives, but the noise continued. I brought it to my area's most experienced high-performance mechanic; I'd worked with him on many projects, including CC heads, sizing cranks, decking blocks, and planning heads. His diagnosis was cam and lifters. We'd already skipped toothed the transmission, so I went with the repair. On startup, the ticky was still present. So, disassembly of the front to block had to be done. I did this after my typical workday. I Had everything off the front of the engine, including the timing cover; the ticky was there but even louder. It turns out that the fuel pump return spring had checked out for a visit into the oil pan; the new pump and ticky was gone. The mechanic was baffled and refunded me.
There's something wrong with that engine it is not the cam phasers this is a symptom of a much larger problem hell maybe it's just a bad oil pump but it's not cam phases
That's a bad knocking from that engine not good at all
I HEAR YA KNOCKING BUT YA CAN'T COME OUT, YA GOT TO HOLD ON TIGHT TONIGHT.
Fix Exhaust leak. Plz. Still there
FIX OR REPAIR DAILY.
I think i,'d close the hood, put it on the lot and run away after calling the customer to come and get it.
I’ve been watching your channel for about a year now and absolutely love what you do. I do my own oil changes, but I find it very interesting to watch you do repairs on other people’s vehicles
All those whining and ticking noises are just the bearings and such, filing each other down to match. That works best when running only a quart of oil. That way the metal can wear down faster.
Then when you change the oil to remove all the filings, it will run perfect with new oil, since everything ground itself down to match its adjoining surface.
😮😮😮😮
Am I serious??
No, just being sarcastic 😊.
Ford sounds as though it is blowing past an injector seal.
that truck is becoming a pain in the butt for the poor owner who does not have use of their truck because o this madness
Maybe swap in a 5.4 triton 2vavle engine instead. those dont seem to have any issues.
warranty companies are gar ba ge
Not related but interesting. I had a 1998 Ford F150 with the 4.9L 6 cylinder that rattled on cold start. I came across a TSB that said to change the oil to 5W30 instead of 10W30 and I'll be damned if it didn't fix it. Go figure.
How do you spend 10 grand with a remanufactured engine?
A couple hundred dollars at a time
Oh dear ray you often say you would do the job twice but really would you do that job twice thanks for the video
thats an oiling problem on right bank do phaser lockout or add oil tube between heads on back side
You changed the drivers side not passenger side though!!
Time for an LS swap! 🙂