Why Crimp & Seal Butt Connectors FAIL!

34 thoughts on “Why Crimp & Seal Butt Connectors FAIL!”

1. I did a lot of research(extensive googling lol) about this probably 12-13 years ago. I ended up buying a few different crimpers and some with interchangeable dies for different types of terminals. I have, and recommend Rennstieg part# 61906033, or something with similar crimping jaws. The jaws this one uses are a specific style just for heat shrink terminals. Another option would be Pressmaster crimping tool frame part# 4300-3149. Then you buy the interchangeable dies for what you need, uninsulated, typical plastic nylon kind, heat shrink terminals Part# 4300-3258 from pressmaster for 16-14ga/22-16ga and 4300-3262 which has 22-18 and 12-10ga dies. You would need these two to cover your typical red/blue/yellow terminals. They even have changeable dies for Delphi/Aptiv Metri-Pack terminals commonly used with GM vehicles. Waytekwire typically has the best price, or check Wirecare, or even Delcity although my last experience with them the shipping was pretty slow.

   Edit- another option that I sometimes resort to is using uninsulated bare terminals then using a piece of adhesive lined heat shrink over that. Something people typically mess up with these when using the staked style crimping end like on your snap on pliers is that they crimp where the stake is stabbing into the seam of the butt connector. Look at the terminal and make sure the seam of it is resting inside the half moon shape portion of the crimpers, then the stake should be pressing down on the solid side of the terminal for the indent.

2. Butt connectors…😂

3. The problem is that most people do not understand that the wires still need to be soldered. It's also very delicate equipment. You can crimp it too hard and you can't overheat it either. You can never have enough tools 😂

4. The reason that any of the connectors used fail, and I mean any of them is due to improper installation. Every connector is rated for a specific wire gauge, but also a specific insulation thickness and even a specific strand count if the connector is worth using. Also, every connector is specifically designed to be crimped with that manufacturers crimp tool, using the correct dye of that crimping tool. Using a TE connector with a 3M crimping tool might not result in the proper amount of pressure or the correct die profile to crimp that specific connector there is a lot that goes into crimping than just squeezing a connector. There are many factors that must be done correctly in order for the connector to be applied in the means the manufacturer intended.

5. The correct tool for those connectors is knipex 975237.
   Tried replacing one injector connector on a tdi using crimp and seal, but the connection was loose, failed tug test. Did the old and true soldering with heatshrink tube method that never fails.
   Better solution would be non insulated butt connectors and heatshink tube with glue.
   Non insulated you can stab them with any crimping tool and it does not matter once the heatshrink tube is on.

6. I’ve ha mixed results with cheap crimpers. I’m having much better luck with professional ratcheting crimpers with the appropriate jaws for the insulated connectors.

7. The cheap crimps like you have can get holes even with the proper crimper. always use high quality ones. I use nspa

8. 🌴🇬🇺bravo👍 THIS is exactly the type of info that makes the difference. 🙏🙏

9. more using tools vids, please

10. yeah worked fleet the wire just corroded with no connectors,
    time and time again but connectors that melted corroded just as fast, 'yes i did it wrong' why the plain wires with heat shrink on them would corrode from the factory as soon as they were received as brand new i would think should be warranty ' but no '

11. "Butt connector" 😂

12. Most people have the SN-02C jaw style crimper in their tool box which is for the ordinary color coded insulated connectors. A SN-02H/HS-125 jaw style crimper like the one you are using is the proper one for crimp and seal butt connectors.

13. This is the right way to use these connectors, and it makes a good crimp.. but there is 1 small downside to doing it this way that I have found, and honestly, it is almost never a problem. After you crimp with the tool, before you heat the tubing, you can pull the wire out of the crimp fairly easily. Whereas with a non-insulated connector, you can crank down on them with the crimper that has the point sticking out and its a much stronger crimp, you can't pull the wire out. Yes, once you shrink the tubing, it helps hold the wire in. In most cases, wires are not going to be yanked on by anyone so being super resistant to being pulled apart is not important. But if you are crimping in an application where there may be strain on the wire, it's a lot harder to pull the wire out of a non insulated crimp. Just a little nuance I noticed. Overall, the method he is using here is the way to go in 99% of applications. Being weatherproof is the biggest advantage. If it wasn't such a pain, the ideal crimp would be a non insulated crimp, then pull separate heat shrink tubing over the whole thing and heat it. Then you have both weatherproof, and impossible to pull apart.

14. The big red "easy" button is a mandatory piece of equipment for every shop. Hahahah, used to work at a dealership and at least half the service team had one installed on their desk.

15. Some people love to use the wrong too and spend considerable energy making up excuses why it's better than doing it properly. I prefer using uninsulated bootlace splice or open barrel splices and normal adhesive heat shrink though.

16. Butt what about Scotch-lock connectors? They are the best 😂😅😂😅.

    Seriously though, if you use Scotch-lock connectors, stop, give your tools to someone else and go get a job doing something else!!

17. I bought the Klein version of the insulated connector crimper ( basically looks the same as yours) but the molded stops don’t crimp the connector properly and the wire pulls out ( others have the same complaint) I am ordering the ones you show thx

18. I have found these things fail because of the glue. The molten glue ruins the wire insulation just outside the crimp. Water/salt and that is all she wrote.

19. Why not use hex crimper for this connection intsead? The tool is not that more expensive than the basic version.

20. 100

21. Lol “butt”

22. There are about a zillion crimpers out there but that Snap-On looks like the worst. No offence.🙄

23. I actually use a heat gun and Icon makes those same crimpers following Snapon’s suit.

24. I uses a regular lighter

25. After 40 years splicing wires on boats for a living, with crimp and seal connectors, I found you should always twist the bared wires before crimping. Even with the right crimp tool, sometimes with a little pull on the joint, it comes apart.

26. I'd just put a dab of liquid electrical tape over the tiny hole in the butt connector.

27. what a stupid video. Use the right tool for the right purpose and it will work just fine. You can also pull a shrink tube over the connector to give it double protection.

28. They're very hit and miss for me and I'm using a ratcheting crimper with the correct insulated jaws. They either work perfectly without ever being an issue later or fall off right after I open the jaws. But recently I found these with short connectors which you feed both sides of it and crimp it just once for both wires and I don't think I've had a single one of those fail me yet.

29. If I am concerned about a splice . I either coat it with liquid Electric tape or fold square of Flex Seal over it . Unless you scrub the wire insulation, that little seal ring will not bite and water will get by those little seal rings inside those connecters .

30. Yah Mother

31. I use a full map-pro torch to shrink the heat shrinks when I use them. I mainly use then on 10 awg wire outside though.

32. what is that blue color gun used for heating.

33. I always slide an adhesive lined heat shrink over the heat shrunk butt splice as well.

34. Thank you, Eric. Just so happens that I've been needing to do this quite a lot recently due to rodents chewing my wires. Thanks so much for sharing!

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