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l picked up this 1992 yale forklift that sat for 6 years outside after 2 repair companies could not fix it, I purchased it for $500 now lets see if we can fix what they could not,

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41 thoughts on “Will It Run? cheapest Forklift I could find .pt2

  1. I have the same forklift. It runs great but when I try to lift with it, it is very slow and has no power. If I floor the accelerator it will lift but do so slowly. It used to work perfectly. Do you have any thoughts on what I could check?

  2. These were the good Yales. Once they got all electronic around 07 or so they turned into junk where you’d need a dealer to do anything with it.

  3. One trick to raising the rear tires off the ground: chain the forks down to yir trailer then lift the mast. Since the forks are chained down, the back end will tip up. Sometimes the propane components get, a little bit, gummed up by the odorizer(Mercapton). Just saying.

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  5. Hey, great and informative video, appreciate that we can tag along. 🙂 I believe the side adjustment is moving faster in one direction due to the different surface area of the hydraulic cylinder. Cheers

  6. A wire straight to the coil and another through the ballast resistor: In the old days when the engine was cranking full voltage was put to the coil for more spark, when in normal run mode the coil was supplied through the resistor. I converted a 6V truck over to 12 and had to understand the ballast resistor.

  7. I like the exhaust smell of a LP gas motor,….Is that weird?
    Sometimes replacing questionable parts with known good parts is a perfectly legitimate troubleshooting technique.

  8. That resistor, next to the coil, does fail. I bought an extra replacement one just to have it on hand at work. I think my dad's 72 dodge dart (Slant six) used those resistor blocks too, and we had to change his too … And we threw a spare in his glove compartment too. I think on that Dodge, they were mounted on the firewall. Look it up on rock-auto.

  9. Used to work on these things, I knew what it was when they described the symptoms – so yes you diagnosed it correctly – so celebrate the win. To jack up the front, we used to tilt the upright fully back, shove a wood block under the bottom of the upright outer channel, then tilt full forward. It will pick the front of the machine up clear of the ground. We would check for leaks after working on them by clearing the drive tires like I just described, aim it away from the shop, crank and run against the governor (in gear) for 15 minutes with a clean sheet of cardboard under it.

  10. Me as forklift mechanic can't belive that they couldn't find the issue on the ignition.. Those sorts of things are the first things to look at and measure out. A good mechanic like me will conclude this problem in an hour or less and order or even have the necessary part with me in my van. For a forklift of this kind you will need to pay 8000 or more euros over here. Know your a really really lucky bastard musti, im watching you since 2015 or so and i wish i was as lucky as you. Man oh.

  11. Well as soon as I found out it was heat related there wasn’t any other option than it being electrical.

    Very good deductive logic. Not much impresses me on YouTube but this made my day. Nice to see people use their brain for once

  12. Ballast resistor is 1.2-1.5 ohms. Same as the coil primary resistance. With engine running should be about 8-9 volts at the + coil terminal, rising to battery voltage when cranking. The other wire coming from the + coil terminal should be the bypass from the starter solenoid when cranking to boost the spark..

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